Exploring Private Island Amanpulo in Palawan

Beyonce, Bill Gates, and former Miss Universe Pia Wurtzbach walk into a bar. Where are they?

The answer is not a punchline. If there ever was one place where award-winning singers, tech billionaires and beauty queens could agree about, it would be Amanpulo. One of the earliest outposts of the ultra-exclusive Aman brand, this resort first opened its doors in 1993. Its enduring allure lies largely in its extraordinary location: the private island of Pamalican in northern Palawan, Philippines.

Its appeal is easy to understand. Ringed by soft powder-white sand and gently swaying coconut palms, and staffed by an army of intuitive staff and butlers, Amanpulo feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle of city life. 

Although just a 90-minute flight from Manila, what really cements its bucket list appeal among Amanjunkies (the term used to describe the brand’s devotees), is that the island is accessible only by private aircraft.

Besides daily chartered flights from Manila, guests with their own private craft may pre-arrange with Amanpulo’s staff for approval to land on the island. The 1,200m long and 30m wide Pamalican Airstrip can accommodate Code 2B aircraft or STOL (short take-off and landing) aircraft, including select jets like the Pilatus PC-24 as well as most types of helicopters. 

The flight itself is a cinematic adventure across the lush Philippine archipelago, which comprises some 7,000 islands. A patchwork of emerald jungles, ivory beaches and shifting, shades of blue seas unfold over the landscape below before the plane descends on a narrow runway flanked by tropical foliage, like a scene out of a Bond film.

Upon arrival, we are whisked off in nifty buggies to our accommodations, of which there are a mix of 18 villas and 42 casitas (Spanish for small house) dotted discreetly through the island, which measures just 5.5km in diameter. Swathed in wood and decorated with touches of capiz oyster shells and rattan, the elegantly restrained tropical Filipino-inspired design of the casitas by national icon and architect Francisco Manosa, look every bit as effortless and serene as it did 30 years ago. 

Of course, there have been discreet refinements over time. The warm-toned timber floors in our four-bedroom villa have been recently refurbished and the kitchen has been outfitted with sleek stainless steel cabinets and modern kitchen equipment – all the better for lowkey soirees after dark.

After all, the space is perfectly set up for multi-generational or group trips, with separate standalone suites that come with their own private decks and ensuite bathrooms. At the centre is a generously sized private pool for lounging – or even swimming laps – as well as a spacious living and dining room where we find ourselves spontaneously gathering for breakfast as well as for a nightcap before turning in.

Helping to orchestrate this socialising with effortless ease are our two dedicated butlers, who are always present when needed, often just a Whatsapp message away, yet never intruding. Beyond taking orders for daily breakfasts, which included highly specific requests like sliced fresh mangoes and chilled sparkling water, Mark our principal butler is also a whiz at keeping our daily schedules on track.

Without the need to look at our watches, time on Amanpulo passes by in a languid haze of relaxation. Mornings might start with a surprise private breakfast on the resort’s signature floating bamboo raft Kawayan Bar or an easy snorkel with long term boat captain Delio, who has a knack for predicting where the island’s resident turtles might be lazily grazing for food. 

There are many ways to stay occupied, from a pampering session at the ultra-indulgent Aman Spa to a full line-up of water activities including scuba diving, kayaking and seasonal kite-surfing as well as sunset cruises and even stargazing at night. 

One uniquely local activity is a half-day excursion via a chartered helicopter ride to Taytay Palawan, home to a pearl farm which produces golden pearls. Run by Filipino brand Jewelmer, this experience includes a visit to the oyster hatchery and laboratory as well as the opportunity to watch local divers on their daily trips to the underwater farms. Throw in some bejewelled retail therapy – we mean souvenir shopping – in the mix and you have all the elements of a memorable day of island hopping. 

Of course, all this sun-drenched activity has a way of building up an appetite and fortunately, Amanpulo takes its culinary offerings as seriously as it does its service. For castaway-chic vibes, head to the breezy Picnic Grove where artisanal wood-fired pizzas are served under the shade of palms with your toes in the sand. Or take a five-minute walk up a rocky outcrop called Gary’s Nest (named for a hotel employee who used to escape here for some solitude), where the staff can arrange for a private sunset session. With sweeping views of the azure waters, this clifftop perch feels made for romantic sundowners and quite possibly, more than a few romantic proposals.

And if there is one must-do for aviation lovers, it would be the out-of-this-world private dinner set on the airstrip, which is transformed into a dreamy alfresco venue with the help of fairy lights and a soulful guitar-playing singer. Over a masterfully executed lechon menu featuring wholesome, hearty highlights including crispy pork skin, tangy sinigang soup and deeply flavourful sisig, we toast to the fleeting luxuries of life, like the pleasure of good company on this picture-perfect night. 

It goes without saying that in a moment like this, it is easy to understand why even after all these years, Amanpulo is the Aman resort of almost mythical reputation that has to be experienced to be believed.